Yarn count and yarn numbering system

Yarn count and yarn numbering system

Definition
The count of a yarn is a numerical expression which defines its fineness. It is also called as yarn number or liner density. It is also called as yarn diameter.
The fineness of yarn cannot be expressed easily inter-mesh of diameter as in case of wires or rods. The instrument such as micrometer cannot be used to determine the diameter of yarn. Therefore special methods are used to determine the fineness or coarseness of yarn.

System of yarn numbering

According to the definition given by the textile institute count is a number indicating the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn. Several systems and unit are used for expressing the yarn number.

Indirect system of yarn numbering

In this system:

1.    The count is the number of units of length per unit of weight of yarn.

2.    Higher the count finer is the yarn.

3.    This system is generally used for cotton, woolen, worsted and linen yarn.

Merits of yarn numbering system

1.    The weight of fabric can be calculated easily.

2.    The threads per inch are directly proportional to the square root of the yarn count and they can be easily calculated.

Disadvantages of indirect of yarn numbering system

1.    The count does not express the size of the yarn directly.

2.    When the component threads are of different units, it is difficult to calculate the resultant count of folded yarn.

Direct system of yarn numbering

In this system the count of yarn is the number of units of weights per unit length of yarn. This system is used for jute and silk yarn.
Advantages of direct of yarn numbering system

1.    The count directly expressed the size of the yarn.

2.    The resultant count of the folded yarn can be easily calculated.

Demerit of direct of yarn numbering system
1. It is difficult to calculate the weight of the fabric.

Universal system
Tex system of yarn numbering is called as universal system. This is a direct system of yarn numbering. This system is applicable to yarn made from natural as well as synthetic fibers.
The merits and demerits as applicable like direct system of yarn numbering.

Units of length and weight in counting system

Indirect system

S.No.	Name of system	Weight unit	Length unit
1	Cotton English	1 Lb	Hank of 840 yard.
2	Cotton French	½ kg	Hank of 1000meters.
3	Cotton metric	1kg	Hank of 1000meters.
4	Spun silk	1 Lb	Hank of 840 yard.
5	Linen	1Lb	Lea of 300 yard.
6	Worsted	1Lb	Hank of 560 yard.
7	Woolen	1 Lb	Leaf of 300 yard.

Direct system:-

S.No.	Name of system	Weight unit	Length unit
1	Silk, Nylon	0.05grams	450meters
2	Jute, Hemp	1Lb	14,400yard.
3	Tex	1 grams	1000meters
4	Denier	1 grams	9000meters

System of Conversion of Yarn Count

Conversion of Count System:

We can convert the value of count from one to other system by followings only some formulas. There are 4 systems for conversion of yarn count from one system to another system.

1.    Conversion from direct to direct

2.    Conversion from indirect to indirect

3.    Conversion from direct to indirect &

4.    Conversion from indirect to direct 

There are two formulas to convert the yarn count as given billow 

1.    Unknown count = Multiplying converting factor X Given count

2.    Unknown count = Constant / Given count

Here the first one is used for first two group of conversion (direct to direct & indirect to indirect) and second one is for last two group including direct to indirect & indirect to direct. 

Before read this conversion system you should read the following articles as a result you can understand easily.

1.    Indirect System of Yarn Numbering and Calculation

2.    Direct System of Numbering Yarns and Calculations

3.    Yarn Count Conversion Calculation

The table of converting factor and the count constant is given billow; 

Direct to Direct:  

Known yarn count in	Multiplying converting factor for unknown count
	Tex	Denier
Tex	-------	9
Denier	0.1111	------
Jute count	34.45	310

Example;  

§  Denier of unknown count = Tex (known count)  X  9

§  Tex of unknown count = 0.1111  X  Den or Jute count

Indirect to Indirect: 

Known yarn count in	Multiplying converting factor for unknown count
	Metric (Nm)	Worsted
Cotton (Ne)	17	1.5

Example; 

§  Metric Count = 17 X Known cotton or worsted count

§  Worsted Count = 1.5 X Known cotton or Metric count

Indirect to Indirect & Direct to Direct: 

Known yarn count in	Constant
	Tex	Denier
Cotton	590.5	5315
Metric	1000	9000

Example; 

§  Metric = 9000/Known Den count

§  Denier = 5315/Known Ne

If we see the conversion formula at a glance then concept will be clear about conversion of yarn count. 
Conversion formula: 

1.    Denier = 9 X Tex

2.    Ne X Denier = 0.5315

3.    Metric X Tex = 1000

4.    Tex X Ne = 590.5

5.    Ne = Metric X 0.5905

6.    Metric X Denier = 9000

7.    Tex = 34.45 X lb/ spindle 

Definitions & Formulas: 

1. English Cotton system (Ne) 
The count of a cotton yarn is the number of hanks, each of 840 yards in 1 lb. ( 1 lb. weight is considered as a fixed weight). 

                                               Length of yarn in Yards 
English Cotton count (Ne) = ----------------------------------------- 
                                            Weight of yarn in lb. X 840 

2. French cotton count (Nf) 
The French cotton count is the no. of hanks of 1000 meters which weight of 500 gms. 

                                              Length of yarn in Meters 
French Cotton count (Nf) = ------------------------------------------------ 
                                           Weight of yarn in 1 km X 2000 

3. Metric count System (Nm) 
The metric count of yarn is the no. of hanks, each of 1 km. which 1 kg. 

                                     Length of yarn in Mtr 
Metric Count (Nm) = ------------------------------------------------ 
                                  Weight of yarn in kg. X 1000 

4. Spun silk count system 
The count of spun silk system in the total no. of hanks, each of 840 yds weighing one pound. 

This system is used for the yarn made from pure silk waste. 

                               Length of yarn in Yards 
Spun Silk Count = -------------------------------------------- 
                             Weight of yarn in lb. X 840 

5. Worsted & Mohair Count system 
The count of yarn in worsted & mohair counts system the no. of hanks, each of 560 yards weighing one pound. 

                                               Length of yarn in Yards 
Worsted & Mohair Count = ------------------------------------------- 
                                             Weight of yarn in lb. X 560 

6. Woolen count system 

i. Woolen count- Yorkshire Skeins System 
The weight unit of 6 lbs. is fixed and length unit as a skein of 1536 yards is fixed. 

                                              Length of yarn in Yards 
Yorkshire Skeins System = ------------------------------------------------ 
                                            Weight of yarn in lb. X 256 

ii. Woolen count- American Cut System 
The count of woolen yarn in American Cyt system is the no. of Cuts each of 300 yards weighing one pound. 

                                        Length of yarn in Yards 
American Cut System = --------------------------------------------- 
                                      Weight of yarn in lb. X 300 

7. Asbestos count-American System 
The count of yarn in asbestos American system of hanks each of 100 yards weighing one pound. 

                                                  Length of yarn in Yards 
Asbestos American System = ------------------------------------------------- 
                                               Weight of yarn in lb. X 100 

8. Fiberglass System 
The count of yarn in fiberglass system is the no. of cuts or hanks each of 100 yards weight in one pound. 

                                  Length of yarn in Yards 
Fiberglass System = ------------------------------------------- 
                               Weight of yarn in lb. X 100 

9. Tex count system (gK) 
The Tex count of the yarn is the no. of gms. In 1000 mts. 

It is a Direct System of Yarn numbering. 

                                          Weight of yarn in gms. 
Tex count system (gK) = ------------------------------------------- 
                                      Length of yarn in 1000 mts 

10. Grex count system 
In the grex count system the no. of gms that 10000 mts. Weight indicates the count. 

                       Weight of yarn in gms. X 10000 
Grex System = --------------------------------------------------- 
                             Length of yarn in mts 

11. Denier cout system (Td) 
The denier count is weight in gms of 9000 mts of yarn. 

                                  Weight of yarn in gms. 
Denier count (Td) = --------------------------------------------- 
                               Length of yarn in 9000 mts 

12. Jute/Hemp/Flex and Linen System (Dry Spun) 
In these systems the length unit is a spindle of 14400 yards and weight unit is one pound. 

                                Weight of yarn in pounds X 14400 
Jute count System = ------------------------------------------------------ 
                                      Length of yarn in yards 

13. Silk Count (Dram System) 
In silk count system the wt. unit as one dram and the length unit as 1000 yards. 

                                            Weight of yarn in Drams X 1000 
Silk Count (Dram System) = ---------------------------------------------- 
                                                   Length of yarn in yards 

Basic Conversation of Counts:

Linear system measurement: 

1 Inch =25.4 mm	1 feet = 12 Inch
1 Inch = 2.54 cm	1 Inch = 0.0833 feet
1 mm =0.03937 Inch	1 feet = 0.3048 meter
1 cm = 10 mm	1 yard =36 Inch
10 cm =3.94 Inch = 1 Decimeter	1 meter=39.37 Inch
1 cm = 0.3937 cm	1 meter =1.0936 yard
1 yard =0.9144 meter	1 yard =3 feet
1000 meter = 1 km	1 km = 0.6214 mile

Weighs: 

1 kg. = 1000 gm	1 milligram = 0.015 grains
1 gm. = 1000 milligram	1 centigram = 10 mg.
1 kg. = 2.205 pounds(lbs.)	1 lbs. = 453.6gms.
1 lbs. = 0.4536 kg	1 lbs. = 7000 grains.
1 lbs. =1.602 gm	1 ounce(oz) = 28.35 gms.
1 grains =0.065 gms.	1 dram = 1.772 gms
1 metric ton = 1000 kgs	1 metric ton = 0.984 ton

Temperature: 

1° F = -17.22° C	1° C = 274.15° K
1° F = 255.928° K	1° K = -457.87 °F
1° C = 33.8° F	1° K = -272.15° C

References:- 

1.    Useful Tips in Spinning By S. K. Shrivastava.

2.    Aritho-Spinweave Book of Calculations of Spinning & Weaving -By T. C. Shah, P. M. Valand, V. H. Vadalikar.

3.    Principle of Textile Testing By J. E. Booth.